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A Snob’s Guide to Copenhagen: Where to Eat, Sleep and See

Copenhagen is often hailed as a leader in sustainability. Taking part in everyday ‘green behaviour’, such as cycling and minimising waste, is high on the agenda for Danes. But the launch of a new campaign that rewards travellers who take part in the city’s many green initiatives proves that this also applies to visitors.

Beyond sustainability, Copenhagen is a city of great food (ahem, Noma), culture, and design. Visit in winter and you’ll find no shortage of hygge-esque things to do. You can eat your way through multiple New Nordic tasting menus at some of the world’s best restaurants, wander prestigious galleries and museums, or join the locals for a sauna and winter swim.

In the summer, when the sun doesn’t set until 10pm, the city is bustling with life, especially along the waterfront. Restaurants spill out onto the sidewalks, canals fill with boats, and people dive into designated swimming areas dotted around the pristine harbor (the Seine is not!). And because it’s a relatively small city that’s easy to explore, especially by bike, you can tick off a lot of the hotspots in a single long weekend. Here’s how to do it.


Where to stay

from the seabed

From England

A suite in the luxurious D’Angleterre, Copenhagen’s grande dame hotel.

For a traditional hotel experience, the hotel From England is a classic five-star grand dame—and easily the most luxurious in the city. There’s also Hotel Sandersa chic hideaway filled with Scandinavian furniture or the new Hotel Bella Grandean old building with yellow awnings on a quiet street, where the suites have extensive terraces with views over the city that are truly unsurpassable.

Since you are in one of the design capitals of Europe, it makes sense to stay somewhere that celebrates good design. Or better yet, why not stay somewhere that celebrates good design? Through a design brand? In Nordhavn, a short metro ride from the busy city center, Auto residence is a collection of rooms decorated with furnishings from the eponymous minimalist Danish design brand – think marble coffee tables and bouclé sofas set against dusty pink walls. Situated above the Audo Copenhagen headquarters, it’s more guesthouse than hotel. There’s no 24-hour reception, but you can come and go as you please without being hassled. Downstairs, the shop showcases the brand’s sculptural armchairs and steel tables (you’ve been warned), while the stylish café sells coffee and pastries. The building is also a short walk from one of the city’s best harbour baths, ideal for a morning dip.

In the same way, Vipp pencil case is a one-room apartment-style guesthouse by design brand Vipp, housed in a former pencil warehouse. It’s located across town from Islands Brygge and has a gorgeous kitchen and dining room overlooking a leafy courtyard. Perfect for hosting an impossibly fancy dinner party.


Where to shop

a vase with flowers on a table

ALASTAIR PHILIP WIPERS

The delicious glassware of Helle Mardahl.

Don’t even bring carry-on luggage. Copenhagen is one of those cities where you’ll definitely want to check as many bags as possible on your return flight. Danish heritage design pieces, like Poul Henningson lamps and Georg Jensen silverware (although you may want to have these shipped), are always classic go-tos. But so is newer design. Check out stores like Hay for colorful home accessories, Hell’s Evil for dreamy mouth-blown glassware, and Standing still And Firm Life for household items such as ceramics and linens. If you’d like to do a big all-in-one sweep, Ilums Bolighus is a department store that sells #IYKYK brands such as Fritz Hansen and House of Finn Juhl.

Copenhagen really comes alive in summer.

But leave room for the clothes too. Danish fashion has experienced a renaissance in recent years, with many new brands launched, many of which also have sustainable initiatives. Dishowned by two Danish sisters, is known for its understated, timeless pieces using ethical materials, while Stine Goya And Helmstedt offer colorful, playful dresses and sets. Caro Editions stocks unique items such as hand-embroidered T-shirts and pajama pants, and Cecilie Bahnsen is known for her fantastic imaginative haute-couture-like dresses in soft tones (also available at Lot29). Pure Utz makes beautiful bead and pearl jewelry in collaboration with craftswomen in Guatemala. Cult unisex brand Sign is coveted for its organic cotton bedding and striped nightwear, which can also serve as daywear. And for men’s clothing, Another aspect has a range of uniform pieces such as sleek work jackets and tailored trousers, while WoodWood sells super cool, lesser-known foreign and local brands for both men and women.


Where to eat

a room with tables and chairs

Claes Bech Poulsen

Dining at Alchemist is a multi-sensory experience.

Copenhagen’s dining scene is vast and varied. The city has become known for fine dining, thanks to its many restaurants that need little introduction. René Redzepi’s Nomafor one. Also high on all foodie lists is Alchemistan over-the-top multi-course tasting that lasts for several hours in multiple rooms and catapults you into what feels like another universe. Then there’s Alouettea beloved restaurant that recently underwent a major renovation and reopened in a beautiful space, designed by designer David Thulstrup, opposite the King’s Garden.

If you’re in the mood for something a little more laid-back, you won’t be disappointed either: grab a sourdough roll with butter and cheese from Lido, or some bright salads from Auren’s Deli. Apollo bar is a city staple, where you can eat loaves of fresh bread and steak tartare while watching Copenhagen’s cool crowd drift in and out. If you want to venture beyond New Nordic, Gaijin is a magical spot in a dining room with wooden paneling that has a Japanese feel, while Jatak offers a tasting menu based on Cantonese and Vietnamese dishes. A pro tip for both restaurants: take a seat at the bar with the chef at the bar.


What to see

people flying kites on a grassy hill near the water

Louisiana Museum of Modern Art

To get to the Louisiana Museum of Modern Art you have to go a little way out of town, but you’ll be rewarded with a view like this.

The city’s most sought-after museum is an hour from the city, but easily accessible by train. Set on the oceanfront, spread across a collection of mid-century modern buildings, the Louisiana Museum of Modern Arts architecture is half the reason to go. You could easily spend a whole day here, browsing the sculptures by Knud W. Jensen and Richard Serra in the garden and the Yayoi Kusama installation, then stopping for an open-faced sandwich lunch at the oceanfront café. Back in town, the recently renovated Design Museum Denmark has an extensive design collection, including a permanent exhibition showing the country’s design development, as well as an entire room dedicated to chairs. the Glyptotec, Visitors can marvel at some 10,000 works, including objects from ancient Greece and masterpieces from France, including Manets, Monets and Degas.

Fancy a little adventure? Go to Tivoli Gardensa historical theme park dating back to the late 19th century. It may sound cheesy, but it is a quintessential Copenhagen experience. Plus, it is the former home of Hans Christian Andersen and beloved by all Danes. When the weather is good, there is no other place you want to be than outside, preferably by the water. Whether that means renting a small boat (from GoBoot) and a boat trip through the canals or a dip in one of the many harbour baths (which are spread throughout the city and easy to find): in summer Copenhagen really comes alive.


The packing list

Check-in M
Curved ring
Mini dress
Sweater vest
Cecilie Bahnsen Sweater Vest
Mandy Flower Dress
Stine Goya Mandy Flower Dress
Bou-bag
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